We're in Cusco, and overwhelmed by the tourism aspect of this town. It seems to be what it's about -- and that's new thing for us. Understandable, in that people come mostly for MachuPicchu, are here for only a day or two before or after, hungry and wanting to see and buy the beauty of Peru -- but it's ugly seeing and being a part of it. Hopefully, we'll get a different sense of the city once we're out of tourist central area. Below is the last of Cuenca (perhaps) - may continue with older Cuenca if we don't fall in love here.
We'd noticed roof ornamentation on lots of older buildings in Cuenca, and didn't understand. Franco, our naturalist/guide to Cajas NP had studied this bit of heritage, and explained that roof crosses came with the Spaniards (when they took over Cuenca in 1550s), as a way to mark homes' inhabitants by their class, heritage and faith. All Catholics, of course, (by Spanish mandate) but some more worthy than others.
- Spaniards marked their homes with a simple marble/stone cross.
- Mestizos (indigenous/Spaniard mix) used iron crosses and incorporated extensive imagery in their roof decorations -- angels representing conception; ladder for the passion of Christ; a cock representing St. Peter's three denials of Christ before the cock crowed; a heart, representing the heart of Christ, etc.
- Indigenous used rock/stone crosses, with imagery of the moon (from their traditional matriarchal religion), doves (for peace), and balls (for fun?).
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Indigenous folks live here -- the moon still a part of their religious iconography. |
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Lots going on here, mestizo within. |
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Simple stone -- a true Spaniard lived within. |
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Mixed family, installed in 1964. |
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Mixed and pretty fancy, installed 1914. |
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Mestizo, farmer, bringing all the imagery to play. |
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Simple stone, Spaniard here. |
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Not sure, but it's iron. |
Another authority(?) told us that it was up to the family's godfather to place the cross. They have a long spike for installation.
We found the area of Cuenca that historically has made the iron crosses. Vulcan was an iron worker, and his statue hangs out in the area.
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Big plaza in the ironworks area, with Vulcan and a volcano |
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Vulcan at work. |
Many newer homes never get 'crossed', the tradition apparently
is continued primarily in indigenous homes, while others sometimes put a
cross on their home for decorative purposes, not necessarily adhering
to the older class requirements. Some folks these days put other stuff on their roofs, modern variations of the tradition.
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: ) -- many of this modern type. |
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