y-es travel chapter: A day in the Portuguese countryside

With great trepidation we took off for the Portuguese countryside in a rented car; trepidation because the language is so difficult (what if something happens!), and because the maps we have seemed sorely insufficient. But we did it and it felt like a huge victory over my fears and sense of limitation. Once we handled the rental stuff, the fuel charge (oh my!), the insurance, and pulled out of the lot it was a lovely day in the countryside, in pursuit of birds, wildflowers and chimneys. We have two more days of driving in Portugal then head east to Spain.

Additional delights were the constant sounds of a cuckoo in a salt marsh -- could have been part of a clock for its constancy -- and the aroma of blooming orange and almond groves in the evening. Sigh. Not so delightful is the aroma of bacalau (dried, salted codfish, the national dish) which is cooking in the downstairs apartment as I write -- ugh.

This south western region of Portugal is known for its chimneys, among other things. Beautiful carved plaster and clay chimneys grace homes, public buildings and churches; even new construction sports these. A few:

Antennae and chimneys coexist on the rooftops here.

These two were on a small church.

This chimney had other jobs, too.

And this one, with a weather vane -- the rooster is the adopted symbol of Portugal.

Another thing going on now is that black storks are breeding here as well as in other parts of southern Europe. They're interesting big animals -- weight 5-10 lbs, 40-50 in tall, 61-79 in wingspan, carnivorous, monogamous breeder although not for life. And they're nest building -- their nests weigh several hundred pounds and can be hard on buildings, but are still considered good luck. The birds are very active here -- we're aware of the clacking sound of their wooing and of their soaring, in pursuit of food and nest-material-gathering.