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Saturday, January 19, 2013

El Senor de Los Milagros

Somehow we never got around to writing about the El Senor de Los Milagros events of Arequipa, which were rich and fascinating.  We're now in Portland, enjoying beervana immensely and doing a bit of Peruvian cleanup on photos and events -- this and a couple of others will have Peru well-enough covered, we think, to move on.

The month of October in Arequipa, as in most of Peru, is devoted to El Senor de Los Milagros, the Lord of the Miracles - a greatly beloved version of Jesus.  He became a favorite in part because this depiction of Jesus on the cross was one of the few things that survived a massive 18th century earthquake in Lima.  During the month of October there's lots of celebrating this Jesus. Colors are purple and white, ladies wear purple dresses with white ropes as belts, there are streamers around the churches and the streets, and there are frequent processions carrying this special statue of Jesus around the town.  There's lots of pomp and circumstance, quite a celebration.

We first saw a night procession through the old part of town, where we were staying.  It may have been his first outing, or could have been one of many.  Our photos are rather pathetic as always in catching the visuals, and the drumming and sounds of shuffling feet were pretty amazing, also uncaptured.  Nonetheless . . . here's the sacred statue (the actual one!) making its way up the street in front of our hostel.

The lace topped ladies in the lower right, and the men near the statue (and shown below) are all walking backwards up the street, facing El Senor.


These purple men carrying the statue are prominent businessmen, we later learned.


It's an honor to actually carry, but the businessmen line up to march, too., and to be ready to switch off.
There they go, bands, chanting, marching up the street to a special alter where they stopped for a bit, then took El Senor back home.
There may have been other processions in other parts of Arequipa, but on the final Sunday of the month El Senor de Los Milagros winds through the entire city.  We witnessed it passing through our little section of town.    
Street getting ready for the procession to come through.
The businessmen networking, in their purple robes (bright day, limited cameras make them look blue), awaiting their turn to carry the statue.
One of the street decorations (sawdust, sand, flower petals) awaiting the procession.  Those walking ahead of the statue would walk around it, and those carrying the statue would walk over and through it.  Another one below, sans flowers.

The procession, led by a man in his 40s who has Down syndrome; there were lots of  Downs and other challenged  people in the procession - miracles.  

Lots of backwards walkers again.

Glitter was big along the processional route - thrown on the statue as it passed.

We watched an exchange of carriers.  Well handled, well-timed, it was about 60 men out, another 60 in.
Special food carts followed the parade; these foods, we were told, were specific to the event.
Afterwards.  We stayed in one place, and the whole thing passed by us in about an hour.
The excitement and joy was palpable.

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