News, and mixed Arequipan religious stuff

This South American leg of our adventure is coming to an end and it's weird, the jubilation and the sadness that accompany that awareness.  This morning I had the best horseback ride I've had in over 45 years.  I rode a steed that was spirited yet observant and responsive, in countryside that was beautiful and varied, sat by the rushing Rio Chili talking politics and life with my guide Anibal, cantered/galloped longer and faster than I have for decades.  No helmet required  : ), and my body (even my back) enjoyed it as much as my head and heart.  Absolutely delightful.  

We will be ending this part of our adventure on 11/15, when we return to the states to play for a bit, and for holidays with kids, my sister, friends.  The Y-Es will all rendezvous in the Pacific Northwest for Christmas together and with my sister. Then Steve and I will start the new year in an apartment in Portland for a month or two to more seriously check it out, then head off for travels elsewhere (Great Britain?) for another bit, then . . . ?  

On with this:

Religious art rules here.  It's Roman Catholic, but strategically incorporates many aspects of historical indigenous beliefs.  The amazing gilded altars, brocades, tormented/beatific faces of the statuary, the intricately carved (and mostly unused) pulpits, the ornate moldings, all end up blending together at this point after 4 months on the road in South America.  We keep going into the churches, religious museums, convents and monasteries because they continue to astound and impress,and there's always something new and different.  Some more than others.  Here are a few photos, and some of what we've learned about symbolism and syncretism and society. 

 

 These two extravagant cloaks for the clergy looked a bit like Star Wars inspirations. 

This one of intricate lace and embroidery -- lovely. 

In Arequipa's main cathedral, there's much that reflects indigenous, pre-Spaniard life, including, for example, the honoring of corn as seen in this sky light's decoration.  The local artisans made sure to include such items for comfort, and for fuller, easier acceptance.

These coffins are fairly common in the churches here -- in this case Jesus laid out comfortably in a glass coffin, with flowers and a soft mattress.

This is a Moorish Jesus, in the style and coloring of the Moors, who donated this to the church in Arequipa.  Nice rough-hewn cross, too. 

The cathedral doors are most impressive. 

I'd not seen pansies in such profusion in liturgical items -- this antique banner was filled with pansies, and only pansies,  the flower that symbolizes remembrance.  Lovely embroidery.  

 

These pics show Christ at the Column, as he's often shown in Peru, just before the flagellation starts.  The facial expressions of Column Jesus are so evocative. 

Facial expression captures the suffering and the questioning so well.  This was a half Jesus, the only one we've seen.

I've been intrigued with the saints' hands here in Peru, often quite veiny, not like the locals at all. 

This is an interesting depiction of Mary and Jesus -- the mom in Mary always present,and here, she's holding the crucified Jesus as she would her infant son, symbolizing both the maternal and religious aspects of her love.  Very sweet, very true of parental feelings.  The swords piercing her heart are a common symbol here for the pain and anguish of Jesus' death.

 

An arm cilice, from a convent, clean and ready for use.

I'd not seen this type of dress, which Mary is wearing, to make nursing Jesus easy (slit in her dress, on her left side).  Nursing babies is a long-term affair here, and quite acceptable while working, doing business, etc.  The infants are almost always near their moms (on their backs, lying in laps, on the floor playing).  Contented babies.

This is very typical symbolism on liturgical stuff here -- the pelican pecking/piercing its breast, plucking out its heart, to provide sustenance for its children.  Symbolic of the self-sacrifice of Jesus for mankind.  It shows up on lots of carvings, chalices, silver, clothing.

Mary's garb frequently resembles a mountain (triangular) because, pre-Spanish Catholicism, the local folks' beliefs included mountain worship.

We head to Puno and Lake Titicaca for a few days this weekend, then on to Paracas National Park near Pisco for our last five days in Peru.