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Sunday, May 26, 2013

British heritage offerings and an oddity

Apology/warning:  this is long.  The gist:  many historical sites in the UK now encourage visitors to play and experience the sites, rather than observe them. It's risky, but very nice.

Great Britain's heritage and cultural sites are operating differently than when I last visited, about 15 years ago.  What I remember from then is the classic standard of look but don't touch, read this, listen to this, walk here not there, observe and be impressed. In many ways, and in some places that has changed; visitors are encouraged and expected to experience the sites.

Steve sitting in the morning room, reading a paper.  We could sit anywhere,
work a puzzle, read a magazine, hang out.
Our first exposure was at Dunster Castle (Somerset, SW England), a grand formal National Trust castle/home and the site of a big civil war battle.  We were invited into things that were surprising.
We could handle the dining room's fancy place settings and fold a napkin to match the table's.  When I asked, it was explained that this wasn't the actual historical sterling silver, but silver plate made to resemble, but not as valuable.  A staff member was in the room to keep an eye on folks and stuff, but still . . .   
When we entered the Lord's office, the classic old phone rang, and we walked over to the desk and
were expected to answer it.  Some people ignored it, shocked at its ringing.  
We could hold, aim, clean hunting rifles.  

We could try on a number of hats from
servants' to gentry's.
This typical top hat was very structured and uncomfortable.  It was explained that this was standard fit and that they were rigid so they'd stay on.  Frequent wearers had dents in their heads.





 There were sounds of horses and grooms in the stables, of servants in the kitchens and hallways, water in the bath.



This civil war soldier loaded and fired his musket during a presentation of the lives of civil war (1640s) soldiers and support folks (women, doctors, etc).  The civil war presentation was fascinating including lots of  hands on, lots of real-people humor -- historical, but so real.

The castle included a recently opened (and unretouched) 50s kitchen upgrade.  Keeping it real if not so pretty.

There was also lots of emphasis on the lives of the people who served as well as the people served, rising interest resulting from Downton Abbey.  Also, there were privies readily visible in almost every historical place we went -- these were real people who had real needs.  Not old style historical, which has always bothered me in how they'd hide the privies.  I grew up wondering whether historical folks actually had the same needs as my contemporaries.

Thinking Dunster Castle was a fluke, we went on to a number of other historic sites (abbeys, manor homes, forts, industrial sites), and were surprised to have similarly experiential visits.  We later learned from a Welsh national park employee that the mission of most British historical institutions is now being stated as something along the lines of increasing understanding of the heritage, to encourage valuing that past. The National Park mission also includes an element of protecting cultural and natural beauty, and of aiding understanding and promoting the special qualities of the local area.  So they are much more about engaging, and through enjoyment and understanding, encouraging buy-in, rather than protecting and displaying.  Enhancing absorption and affection through participation and understanding.

At Tretower Castle and Manor we were allowed to walk all around the grounds, climb the castle, etc.  Granted, they have ruins to spare.  There were sheep grazing in this field and an aggressive very pregnant ewe wanted Steve to stay put .  While in Somerset a local was trampled to death while walking through a neighbor's field of cows who'd recently calved.  Maternal stuff's strong. 
In the kitchen we could play with the pots, look into the
 cupboards, set the table, work with the herbs, etc. 

Pull up a seat, at the lower table or the upper table (below).
Fake food here, but they do full-on-accurate
 medieval banquets, too.  Sorry we missed it.  
I was surprised at the easy accessibility (hence vulnerability) of the artifacts available for use and play.  Furniture, too.  Apparently the accessible things are mostly reproductions, done with full accuracy as to craftsmanship, and in a state of newness that reflects the occupants' use of them -- the items would have been in good shape, new when they lived there and used them.

And yes, things are occasionally pinched, but not very often and since they are replicas, they are replaceable.  This also keeps modern-day craftspeople engaged with the old methods and styles, keeping the crafts alive.  They build the cost of the occasionally stolen item into the budget, and consider it a reasonable investment.
My view while sitting at the upper table.  
Each glass at the upper table was  beautiful and different, and totally "pinchable".  I wanted this one.  


 At Blaenavon, an industrial site museum on the iron industry in southern Wales, we could wander through workers homes which had been assembled to represent different time periods of the site's history.  Again, we could look in cupboards and closets and in drawers, sit in the the rooms, lie on their beds, read their books, hang out at the table, etc. 

Me, reading a 1916 domestic dictionary.
Looking into the closet of a 1930s home.  Could take out the clothing, try it on.  

Steve reading in the kitchen by the fireplace.  
A bedroom for two young workers, 1870s.  Climb in bed?
Me in a WWI era home, wearing a gas mask (not too uncomfortable, surprisingly).

And an oddity:
 
The Vaughan (owners of Tretower Castle) family crest.  Legend has it that the patriarch was born with a snake around his throat.  Interesting birth story.



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