El Senor de Los Milagros

Somehow we never got around to writing about the El Senor de Los Milagros events of Arequipa, which were rich and fascinating.  We're now in Portland, enjoying beervana immensely and doing a bit of Peruvian cleanup on photos and events -- this and a couple of others will have Peru well-enough covered, we think, to move on.

The month of October in Arequipa, as in most of Peru, is devoted to El Senor de Los Milagros, the Lord of the Miracles - a greatly beloved version of Jesus.  He became a favorite in part because this depiction of Jesus on the cross was one of the few things that survived a massive 18th century earthquake in Lima.  During the month of October there's lots of celebrating this Jesus. Colors are purple and white, ladies wear purple dresses with white ropes as belts, there are streamers around the churches and the streets, and there are frequent processions carrying this special statue of Jesus around the town.  There's lots of pomp and circumstance, quite a celebration.

We first saw a night procession through the old part of town, where we were staying.  It may have been his first outing, or could have been one of many.  Our photos are rather pathetic as always in catching the visuals, and the drumming and sounds of shuffling feet were pretty amazing, also uncaptured.  Nonetheless . . . here's the sacred statue (the actual one!) making its way up the street in front of our hostel.

The lace topped ladies in the lower right, and the men near the statue (and shown below) are all walking backwards up the street, facing El Senor.

These purple men carrying the statue are prominent businessmen, we later learned.

It's an honor to actually carry, but the businessmen line up to march, too., and to be ready to switch off.

There they go, bands, chanting, marching up the street to a special alter where they stopped for a bit, then took El Senor back home.

There may have been other processions in other parts of Arequipa, but on the final Sunday of the month El Senor de Los Milagros winds through the entire city.  We witnessed it passing through our little section of town.    

Street getting ready for the procession to come through.

The businessmen networking, in their purple robes (bright day, limited cameras make them look blue), awaiting their turn to carry the statue.

One of the street decorations (sawdust, sand, flower petals) awaiting the procession.  Those walking ahead of the statue would walk around it, and those carrying the statue would walk over and through it.  Another one below, sans flowers.

The procession, led by a man in his 40s who has Down syndrome; there were lots of  Downs and other challenged  people in the procession - miracles.  

Lots of backwards walkers again.

Glitter was big along the processional route - thrown on the statue as it passed.

We watched an exchange of carriers.  Well handled, well-timed, it was about 60 men out, another 60 in.

Special food carts followed the parade; these foods, we were told, were specific to the event.

Afterwards.  We stayed in one place, and the whole thing passed by us in about an hour.
The excitement and joy was palpable.

PNW and Vancouver

I started this last "international" entry before the arrival of the holidays, but obviously let it sit.  We've been having fun, playing hard, and getting to know Portland is taking time.  

 Hope the new year is good for you all!

We drove north from Seattle through Everett, WA to visit Alan, a librarian friend who's newly relocated here (lucky them, lucky him).  We stayed in Bellingham, WA -- beautiful little town -- for a couple of nights, then on to Vancouver. Our drive to Vancouver was on the day of the Newtown tragedy, stunned, and with the awareness of entering a country with far saner gun practices.  A few observations: 

Steve outside the Everett Public Library Main Branch.  Next door to the library is a new set of condos, called Library Place -- it is the condos that have proudly established this book sculpture.  

Evergreen Branch of the Everett Public Library -- Branch Manager Alan! --  standing in front of its cool brick mural.

     

In Bellingham, WA we stayed in a teeny airbnb apartment called the Hobbit Hideaway, and it included the first composting toilet I've ever lived with -- one deposited one's stuff (pre-selection of receptacles required, gotta let the composting toilet know what's coming), stirred it into the composting stuff (wood chips, sawdust, peat), paper in the trashcan (for which we'd been well trained in Ecuador and Peru).  Right off the kitchen here.  Interesting.

Our first draw from an ATM in Vancouver brought us unused  bills.  This is one of their 20s -- don't know if it's visible, but it's a plastic bill, with the shiny part on the right completely transparent (passing car showing through), two images of the queen -- lovely, complex currency.

Vancouver was celebrating holidays -- big caroling event, and this ice skating venue.

I really liked the supports available for novices.  Well used and popular, there were probably 20 on the little rink, and not just used by children.  

Saw this slightly angry Wall Street-similar on a walk.  No clear connection to surroundings.

Vancouver has a 1920s era 5-pin bowling establishment still in use. The bowler uses 3 balls (no finger holes, about 2 pounds each) for the 5  pins (valued as 5, 3 and 2 from the point of the triangle).  Not easy.  Notice the flatscreen tv is broadcasting curling -- for the whole 2 hours we were there.  And people were watching!

Probably my favorite thing about Vancouver is these little Aquabuses.  They are tiny boats that can carry  16 max, and travel a tiny part of the inner city waterway to downtown areas and the main market island nearby.  Adorable.  In another life I want to be an Aquabus captain.  They do summer hires.  Hmm.

We rented bikes in Vancouver and biked around Stanley Park, their version of Central Park.  There were biking and hiking paths,and the place was pretty wild.  Some views: 

The Vancouver (and PNW) squirrels are adorable, about 2/3 the size of ours, mostly black, so furry.

Finally, a Canada goose in the right place!

View from the bike path.  The yellow stuff is sulfur -- they're a big sulfur exporter.  

Steve was captivated by the large empty-vessel parking lot in the water.

The bike path lead followed the perimeter, and the water was huge, peaceful,, clean.  

I liked the explanation as to why to stay on the trails.  

Bald eagles in Vancouver's Stanley Park -- gun violence drove them north? 

Vancouver.  Nice.

We drove the highway north from Vancouver towards Whistler, along a magnificent highway by the water.  Wild and beautiful.  

Great, wild expanses of water and mountains along the road.

This tree was chosen by 9 bird families for nests, over both of its neighbors

The Squamish alphabet was interesting.  

 As we re-entered the US, we were greeted by the sculpture below -- magnificent, interesting -- as we were hurried through the entry gates.  Wish there's been time for an explanation or sculptor credit.  

This stunning sculpture greets folks at the US Canada border.  Wire, huge (60 feet by 40 feet?), of twisted wire - quite beautiful.

Detail of same.


We'll soon be posting a few delightful Peruvian things we missed including.  And, if you're interested, on Portland, which is feeling pretty much like a could-be home.   

Seattle and re-entry

On the road again . . . Willie Nelson comes to mind, but without all his enthusiasm . . .  time's flying.  Our two weeks in the Oak Park area were a blur -- of much loved people, wonderful conversations, parties, coffees, dinners and get-togethers, a visit with Millie in Evansville, and the troubling awareness of not having time to hang out with everyone we wanted to see.

And the food!  The food cooked by excellent chef Ann (our host), and the potable and delicious tap water, special items cooked by friends, and turkey and dressing and pie, and the delightful assortment of vegetables!  Add to that the fullness of the grocery shelves and their delights:  real peanut butter!, bread, sauces and condiments, hot peppers (oh, how we missed the heat!), fresh milk, great coffee -- how very delightful and fattening to be back.

There's a paragraph at the end of this on re-adjustments, because many of you have asked.  But we're in Seattle now, and want to share a bit of it.   We attended the 26th Annual Great Figgy Pudding Street Corner Caroling Competition on Friday.  While not a religious procession (more of Peru's to come), it contains an element of devotion.  Anyone can organize a chorus, and they sing for a couple of hours in downtown Seattle and raise money for a senior's charity.  It's a big deal here, and fun.  

There was tap dancing by a cloggers group, who also sang.

Lots of people come -- they close off Pike Street.

This was the Seattle Labor Chorus - union folks.

These ladies were adorable, singing and dancing Andrews Sisters stuff. 

One of the Beaconettes, the great hair ladies. 

A marching band ended the singing competition and many followed the band to the final judging.  We didn't.

There they go, to the final judging.

Seattle has an annual event hosted by the Seattle Diabetes Foundation -- a fully-edible gingerbread/candy house competition and display.  No hint of irony there.  Disney's presence was heavy.

The Beast's castle.

Yep, Beauty and the Beast, Disney style.

Marshmallow and licorice sheep.

Alice in Wonderland theme.

An architectural firm did this one.  

Seattle has water access everywhere, and parks abound in the city.

Puget Sound from a park in the Ballard neighborhood.

The sound from Carkeek Park, a little north of the park to the left.   Doesn't feel like the city at all.

I went to one of many sets of locks in the area one morning.  This one had a fish ladder (Steelhead still climbing) and cool access to walk over the locks.

Big water + big machinery = very interesting stuff.

Hard to see, but they holiday-decorate their construction cranes in Seattle -- this one shows as a green line.

It's nice to be moderately functional again, with a new camera and binoculars.  This sunset appeared on our drive through Indiana and my new camera caught it.  

November sunset in central Indiana.

So, as to re-entry adjustments :

• The overwhelm of language has been interesting -- all the signs are readable, all the conversations eavesdroppable, all the music understandable, TV accessible and completely making sense, newspapers fully meaningful and relevant.  Everything's accessible -- sort of overwhelming to be in that sea of stimulus.  
• So many good options:  foods, people, books, avenues of pursuit, grocery shelves.  Pretty much related to the point above, in that it's all understandable, all accessible, all possible.  Takes a lot of thought to resist, to not be pulled in every direction.
• The need to decide and then plan the next steps -- it never ends.  We're here and have to keep going.  We're enjoying the respite, but are aware of the pull of the future.  It took forever and major work to line up the 6 airbnbs, four hotels, car rentals and transportation necessary to have us in the PNW for the three months we're here.  
• Obesity and its troubles.  Not a factor in Ecuador or Peru, and frankly it's nice not to have to think about the species' stupidity in that arena.  We're back to it.
• And contentment.  Not so apparent here in the states, as it is in Ecuador and Peru.  Lots of poverty there, lots of troubles, but a basic apparent contentment among the people, the kids.  Wish I felt it here more.
• Communications.  It's wonderful to have a cell again (let me know if you need my new number), and to be reachable anytime.  And it's a big responsibility and tiresome, too.  I'm sure you understand.  Internet is awesome here.  Love it.
• Full pockets.  Must carry a wallet again (south america was cash-based for us), and the phone. And keys. 
• The fullness of politics in this country - argh.  And we missed the worst of it.  This is also one of the delights, sort of understanding the process.
• This life of leisure is interesting.  Easy and natural in another country, but weird here.  I'm not used to not being engaged -- working, volunteering, being with the community, etc, has always been life in the US, and of late, packing and planning our exit.  It somehow doesn't feel right to be a tourist here.  I feel a little antsy about it; Steve's more okay.  We both miss the routine of a normal life, though.    
• And people.  We both realized how much we missed family and friends, and easy access, easy gatherings, easy conversations.
• Travels have complicated life, for sure.  And this sort of re-entry, this life is sweet, but incomplete.